YOSEMITE FLORA AND FAUNA MAY 2013

First of all: May the 4th Be With You. Then take a gander at the slideshow of flowers and critters that emerge in the spring at Yosemite National Park. Various locations include the Merced River canyon, the Mist Trail, El Portal, Yosemite Valley Stables and my yard near the stables. The photo above features North Dome and the Merced River from the Happy Isles bridge on a lovely spring day.

The flowers: lupine, moss, Western Dog Violet, California Poppy, Miner's Lettuce, Some Unidentified Yellow Flower and MacCloskey's Violet. The critters: California Kingsnake, Common Raven, Belding's Ground Squirrel, millipede and Sierra Alligator Lizard (thanks to Todd King for sharing the photo).

MORE EASTERN SIERRA GOODNESS: GREEN CREEK JULY 2012

The Eastern Sierra nevers fails to surprise and delight me, but this summer we discovered a new delight thanks to our friend Joe. Another high country watershed that drains the snows of the Sierra, Green Creek is just south of Bridgeport off the 395, where Green Creek Road dead-ends at the developed Green Creek campground in the Toiyabe National Forest. Unfortunately the campground was closed due to "tree felling" (in July?), but the best-kept secret about Green Creek is all the wonderful undeveloped camping situated for miles along the creek. Apparently we were the only ones not in on the secret as there were many campers of all stripes (RV, tent, trailer) who were augered in for the weekend. We arrived late from Yosemite, so we took the first available spot we could find about 4 miles down the road situated very close to a wide spot in the creek known as Dynamo Pond. Back in the day, Green Creek was dammed in order to provide hydro-electric power to light up the gold rush town of Bodie, some 12 miles away, in the 1890s. Bodie is now California's most famous ghost town preserved in a state of "arrested decay" as Bodie State Historic Park. Though the dam is no longer maintained, the pond remains, providing good fishing for anglers. And when I say "good", I mean difficult - the creek does not get stocked like many other Eastern Sierra creeks and so fishing is a real sport here. We alternated fishing and swimming the creek next to our campsite and the pond a short walk away.

Exploring the road the next day, we were astonished to find so many undeveloped campsites with such great location. Though campfires were banned due to the dry Sierra summer, the high country was green, beautiful and scattered with wildflowers. Wildlife sightings: jackrabbit, Mountain Gartersnake, mysterious black and white birds, some trout, and a California Toad welcomed us to our campsite. We rose very early on the second morning to drive out to Travertine Hot Springs, just outside the town of Bridgeport, a developed hot spring site with a pit toilet! and a parking lot! maintained by the Bureau of Land Management as an Area of Critical Environmental Concern. Arriving by 6:30 AM, we had the pools to ourselves for awhile until a man arrived with his German Shepherd companion. The man soaked quietly in the pool next to ours, but the dog wandered around until he approached our pool. Standing on the travertine ledge that rims the pools, our new canine friend loomed largely over me and then proceeded to lick all the sulphur-scented water off of my head.

Exiting Green Creek through backcountry roads, we urged the Landcrusier south over the ridge on the way to Virginia Lakes. Nothing better than a wide-open desert dirt road. We passed green meadows and alpine forest before we made the turnoff onto the paved road to the lakes. Lulled by the relative lonesomeness of Green Creek, we were miffed by the sheer volume of visitors to Virginia Lakes (and their trash). Hoping for some fishing time, we opted for sandwiches instead and shortly thereafter hit the road to check out our tried and true fishing holes on the way back over Tioga Pass.

Not always paradise in the Sierra Nevada

Unable to resist the lure of the Whoa Nellie Deli at the Mobil Station, we stopped for a little grub and some medical drama. A woman approached Ted in the outside dining area, saying she didn't feel well and that she was camping alone on Tioga Pass at Saddlebag Lake. She had managed to drive herself to the Mobil, but she was obviously suffering from heatstroke. Ted sent me into the gas station to call for paramedics and after asking two different employees to call 911, the manager appeared and asked snippily why we were just now thinking to call for help. Puzzled, I told her that I came inside to have someone call and she turned to me and asked, "What's wrong with your phone?" Incredible. Holding up my empty hands, I told her I didn't have a phone. She seemed rather annoyed by my response, and though she did make the call, I am stunned that anyone would find helping a person in trouble such a nuisance. I am a big fan of the Mobil and the Deli, but I was somewhat less than impressed with the caliber of service on that day. We waited for the paramedics to arrive, who took exceptionally good care of the woman and we hope that she made a speedy recovery. What a way to ruin a vacation.

Our Good Samaritan duties fulfilled for the day, we headed up the road for some fishing before the ride home. With our timely arrival we ran into our friend Bernie, also fishing, and Ted spent the afternoon trying to coax fish out of the water. No such luck. But as all fishermen know, sometimes it isn't about the fish but just about the location. And it doesn't get any better than this:

WE MADE IT TO THE TOP: HIKING YOSEMITE'S HALF DOME JUNE 2012

There they are: the dreaded Half Dome cables that allow you to ascend to the summit. Four hundred feet of steel cable attached to stanchions positioned some six feet apart spanned by a wooden board at the base to provide a toehold. The slope gradually steepens and some sections feel nearly vertical as you hang out in space at 8000 feet of elevation. And that's after you've hiked many miles to get to this place, the saddle between the Subdome and Half Dome. As the proud owners of a Yosemite National Park Wilderness Permit for two nights of camping in the backcountry, we were scheduled to enter the backcountry at the Panorama Trail, camp the first night at Illilouette Creek, camp the second night at Little Yosemite Valley and somewhere along the way, hike to the top of Half Dome and back.

The Fellowship of the Dome was formed when two friends from Florida, Tamra and Warren, suggested that hiking to Half Dome was the thing to do on their California vacation. So Ted and I offered up the deluxe camping digs located in our yard in Yosemite Valley and reserved the wilderness permit. Not long after, Yosemite friends Weimar, Teri and Kristal decided to join our quest with their own permit. Weimar and Teri even recruited another Florida flatlander, their niece Grace, and thus the eight members of the Fellowship set forth for three days and two nights of backcountry adventure in Yosemite National Park. After parking vehicles in the Glacier Point lot, our adventure began on the Panorama Trail with all its outrageously beautiful views and we hiked/dragged our giant backpacks some three miles to Illilouette Creek, our designated campsite for the evening.

Tamra and Warren: hiking to the top of that thing behind them

Illilouette Creek

Ted spotted an established campsite near the creek with a fire ring and plenty of room for our party's four tents, so camp setup was easy and quick. We spent the late afternoon soaking our tootsies in the creek and the evening enjoying some freeze-dried dinner around the fire. Kristal caught up with us at camp as she couldn't get out of work like the rest of us, and illuminated the source of the mysterious ventriloquist-like noise we had been hearing on the trail that day: repetitive boom-like courting notes of the male Sierra Grouse. As far as Yosemite backcountry goes, this spot is idyllic: water cascading along low-angled granite, wildflowers and the deer that munch on them, High Sierra pine trees and stargazing.

Grace and TeriBack on the trail in the not-so-early morning, we labored up switchbacks while it was cool and marveled some more at the panorama of the succintly- and aptly-named Panorama Trail. Viewing Half Dome from its rounded side, you then wind your way down to cross the bridge at the top of Nevada Fall before traveling up the trail to Little Yosemite Valley, our second campsite of the trip, another 3 to 4 miles of hiking with giant packs. Thankfully, the plan to spend the second evening at LYV allowed us to drop our packs and do the seven mile round-trip Half Dome Trail as a day hike. But with tall thunderhead clouds building in the sky, we decided to put off hiking to Half Dome until the next morning and parked ourselves at the river instead. The stretch of the Merced River in LYV is wide and beautiful - perfect for a refreshing post-hike dip. But we began to abandon our rock perches in the river one by one as the sky darkened. And then, in the late afternoon as thunder cracked and rain poured, we contemplated our decision from the shelter of our tents. We all agreed it was a good decision to delay.

Happy Hikers: Kristal, Grace, Weimar, TeriHappy Hikers: Ted and Warren

Early the next morning (for real this time), we rose and packed our day packs with too-little water to tackle the ascent of Half Dome. Three and a half miles up to then cross the exposed trail on the Sub Dome and land at the base of the cables before pulling yourself hand-over-hand to the top. Though we left at 6:30 AM, we still encountered the notorious traffic jam that make the cables such a controversial sticking point with NPS and park visitors. With two exceptions, our party availed itself of a harness system to ascend the cables in the style of Via Ferrata assisted mountain climbing in Italy. Once we all arrived at the base of the cables, Ted kitted us out with harnesses, which took just enough time for every other hiker on the trail to arrive at the base of the cables too. In the noonday sun, we crawled up the cables with a hundred other hikers for an hour while the acrophobics in our party sweated it out. Personally, the height was not much of an issue, but the idea that my strength might fail before I reached the top as I hung on the cables did make me nervous. However, with the exception of acrophobic Kristal (who gamely tried to ascend the cables twice - she should get a medal for that), we all made it to the top, phobias conquered. I was extremely impressed by the performance of the Florida Flatlanders: from sea level to 8000 feet under your own power in a matter of days should leave you with altitude sickness and shortness of breath that prevents you from engaging in foolhardy actions like ascending 400 feet of steel cable on a granite slope. It was then that we realized we had consumed all of our water, but it didn't prevent us from scoping Yosemite from the top of the world (and encountering a friendly marmot):

View from the Sub Dome trail

Ted and Warren on the Sub Dome

View from the saddle between the domes

Gloves provided for free!View from the Half Dome

Happy to have conquered Half Dome, we struggled back down the crowded cables where most of the people seemed determined to stay forever. Believe me and anyone else who says it: coming down the cables is more stressful than going up. Again, not so much a heights issue for me, but hanging on the steep-angled granite clutching the steel cable is very, very tiring. Fortunately we found one last full water bottle in Ted's pack, though it wasn't near enough for the entire Fellowship and the 3.5 mile return trip to the campground in the afternoon sun. We were not in good shape by the time we arrived in LYV. As a matter of fact, Warren was our hero, trotting down the trail to acquire water from a creek that he took to the others on the trail.

So my advice for middle-aged folk hiking to Half Dome is this:

1. Bring plenty of water and more

2. Wear thick padded gloves for the cables - everyone in our party ended up with blisters and I didn't realize how shredded my gloves were until I unpacked them at home

3. Do not attempt as a day hike from Yosemite Valley!

4. Wear and bring sunscreen - no shade on the domes

After a brief respite in the river, we shouldered our packs for the 5 mile hike back to the Valley and home, dreaming of pizza and beers at the Curry Pizza Deck. We descended the Mist Trail, but were almost too thrashed to care about the spectacular views. Tamra swears the last mile was actually three, but we all made it home safely, smelly and slightly sunburned.

Yosemite Backcountry (Including Half Dome!) June 2012 from California Junket on Vimeo.

HIKING AND HIKING YOSEMITE TRAILS MAY 2012

Next week we'll be hiking to the top of Half Dome. There will be a whole gang of us, locals and visitors, attempting Yosemite's most difficult hike: 16 miles round trip and 4800 feet in elevation gain. We're breaking the trip up with some backcountry camping, but it will still be tough. Participating in a self-imposed training regimen, I decided to hike Yosemite Valley's big trails to prepare for Half Dome. All of them. Since the beginning of May I have logged some 50 hiking miles, including Snow Creek Falls, the Mist Trail to Nevada Fall, Yosemite Falls, and the Four Mile Trail. I had corrective foot surgery in December and started walking at the end of February, so I'm quite pleased with my progress (and my photographic evidence). However, after dragging myself to the overlook at Yosemite Falls, I may never hike that trail again. Though I started on Snow Creek, I started taking photos on the Mist Trail in early May on the way to the top of Vernal Fall:

They don't call it the Mist Trail for nothin'!

Looking down on the Mist Trail from the top of Vernal Fall

From the top of Venal FallI wore my rain coat on the stairs next to Vernal Fall and was still completely soaked by the time I arrived at the top. After a short rest in the sun, I kept on to Nevada Fall. No coat needed for the stairs and switchbacks next to Nevada Fall as the sun was blazing in all its glory, and you don't get close enough to feel the mist from the fall. This hike is 5.5 miles round trip.

From the top of Nevada Fall

I tackled Yosemite Falls in the late afternoon and labored seven miles round trip. I discovered I have a knee issue on the way down. Ah, the things you learn about yourself in the great out of doors. The trail has two sections of endless switchbacks divided by a relatively benign midsection that allows you to catch your breath and gird yourself for what lies ahead.

The flat midsection of the trail which doesn't last

Yosemite Creek just above the fallsFrom the top of Yosemite Falls

Yosemite Falls and Half Dome in the same shot on the way downHere, with 1.5 miles to go, my knee said, "Done now. Thanks."After a sufficient rest period for my knee - apparently long distance up and downhill hiking causes strain on the illiotibial band where it crosses your knee joint - it was time to address the Four Mile Trail. On the opposite side of the Valley, this trail offers great views of Yosemite Falls and Half Dome as you wind your way up to Glacier Point for a nine mile round trip. The bonus of this long hike is the access to ice cream at the top. The other bonus is that it is not nearly as crowded as the other trails. Don't be fooled by my strategically framed photos - there are hundreds of other hikers on these trails in the summer. I was dreading the notorious switchbacks on the Four Mile Trail, but it turned out to be a much more pleasant hike than Yosemite Falls. The switchbacks are numerous, but the angle is not as steep. My knee didn't like this hike either, but it was manageable. I also found occasional wildflower gardens busy with blooms.

Half Dome from the top of the Four Mile Trail

Unfortunately, at mile three on the way up the Four Mile Trail, I rapidly acquired and then broke open a heel blister. I jimmied my footwear until it was bearable and finished the trail, but I'm on timeout until it heals. I'm planning to fit in the Yosemite Valley Loop trail - all 14 miles of it - before the Half Dome ascent next week, so wish me luck and send me some moleskin (thanks to Beth for the knee brace). I've been all over the Valley this spring and it's been a pleasure. Where do you go after Half Dome? I'm thinking a float trip on the river sounds just about right. With beers.

For a preview of the Half Dome hike, check out my friend Dalius' video of his run up to Half Dome in May. Dalius is a long distance runner and this was part of his training regimen (as opposed to my goal). Hiking to Half Dome is less difficult for some:

FISHING THE EASTERN SIERRA MAY 2012

Mmmmm... trout. That's what we fish for here in the Sierra Nevada, and we like it: the fishing, the camping, the cooking, the eating. Though we reserved all of our catch for our freezer back home on this trip, we spent a weekend exploring creeks and the Owens River for future fishing forays. We've never been to the east side so early in the season and the campgrounds were very quiet. Our original camping goal was Big Springs, one of a series of free campgrounds maintained by the Forest Service between June Lake and Mammoth Lakes just off Hwy 395. Big Springs had not opened for the season, so we ended up camping at Glass Creek (also free), where Fleabag had plenty of room to roam and bump into things without ending up in someone else's campsite. The spring days at 7000 feet were spectacularly sunny and warm, but the nights were still a bit chilly. I woke to find Fleabag's water bowl had frozen overnight. After a morning campfire and a hearty camp breakfast we fished in the creek some 50 yards from our campsite that had been stocked with trout just three days before.

Glass Creek Campground

Glass Creek

Not much sport in the fishing of stocked trout, Ted says, so we took off in the afternoon to look for other possibilities. We stopped by Deadman Creek at the Big Springs campground and drove along the Owens River Road on our way to Hot Creek. You can surmise that Hot Creek is, well, hot, and near the source of geologic thermal activity. The road passes over the creek a few times and when we stopped on a bridge to snap photos of the undulating water plants in the flowing creek, a flock of swallows emerged from under the bridge in a huff as a formation of pelicans flew overhead. Hot Creek Geologic Site is maintained by the Forest Service with two hot springs pools that feed the creek. Just like the hot springs in Yellowstone, the pools are a fantastic milky blue. The creek abounds with plant life, and swimming is no longer allowed at the site due to temperature fluctuations in the hot springs. After a picnic lunch at the truck we strolled down the walkway to view the pools where Ted really yearned for a swim. On the walk down I noticed an unfamiliar shrub covered with showy pink flowers and buzzing bees. This turned out to be Desert Peach, which only blooms in early spring. Since I never make it over Tioga Pass before summer, there was indeed something new under the sun for me that day.

Deadman Creek

Hot CreekHot Creek Geologic Site

Down the road from the geologic site you can visit the Hot Creek Fish Hatchery, one of three hatcheries in the Eastern Sierra responsible for raising and stocking trout in the region. There are twenty-one fish hatcheries in California, and only half raise trout. The other hatcheries raise salmon and steelhead. This hatchery has outside ponds where you can take a gander at the monster trout and the seagulls all waiting around for a bite.

After the tour, we made a stop at the June Lake Junction store and gas station for ice, just about five miles down Hwy 395 from the Glass Creek campground. The campground itself is just off the highway, and though we could hear traffic from the road, 395 is not a terribly busy road and we found convenient access to ice important at this dry campground. We then convalesced at camp before some late afternoon fishing in Glass Creek to augment our stockpile. Our camp cooking style this trip utilized our new dutch oven, where we cooked up some marinated tri-tip over the fire. In the late evening we had two owls hooting around the campground and coyotes howling off in the distance.

Our dutch oven - the Pronghorn

Packing our gear the next morning, we planned to stop at a secret fishing hole that our friend Harry shared with us on our drive back over Tioga Pass and through Yosemite. A few other people had the same secret, but we were far outnumbered by the fish - thanks Harry! We stopped a few more places with no more success, but were plenty happy with the seven trout we brought home. Of course no trip to the East Side is complete without a meal at the Whoa Nellie Deli inside the Mobil Gas Mart at Lee Vining. Ted's Lobster Taquitos and my Steak Caesar Salad was outstanding as usual. So good that I had to buy the shirt.

Mine Creek at the Saddlebag Lake turnoffThe Tuolumne River in Yosemite

from nanamoose.typepad.com

Junket Rating:

Whoa Nellie Deli: Junk in the Trunk!